Since 2001, each year 72 carefully selected watches have had the opportunity to display their charms and originalities at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in Geneva, the equivalent of New York Fashion Week in fashion or the Oscars in cinema.
All the preselected pieces are exhibited during the months of October and November in market-loving countries. Of these, an Advisory Committee made up of 26 experts in the field, plus two others from other disciplines such as Dieter Mier from the Swiss electronics group Yello and Kiss drummer Eric Singer, had the privilege of naming the favourites.
Not an easy dispute in order to compete for one of the 18 precious statuettes, especially the Aiguille d’Or, the most important watchmaking award that gives the watch and its creator a unique prestige.
Here the result of the Palmarés 2015:
Golden Needle Grand Prix: Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision by Greubel Forsey
Its 24-second oblique tourbillon has been the house’s big surprise and arguably even its most beautiful work. On this occasion, she has leaned towards a classic style with simple features that do not lose one iota of her desire for well-finished details.
Its dial features two small seconds, one at four o’clock and the tourbillon at 9 o’clock protected by a sapphire crystal bubble on the reverse. It is also made of three gold discs housed in a white gold case 43.5 millimeters in diameter.
An impressive model with a manual winding movement that has been limited to 22 units for 267,945.49 euros.
Women’s Watch Award: Big Bang Broderie de Hublot
Attractive and glamorous, following the fusion principle of the Swiss firm, it connects the past with the future of 21st century technology. Just looking at it reveals the sensuality, femininity and intimacy hidden in the hand-embroidered lace from the Bischoff company – a company that works for haute couture and luxury underwear – present on the dial, bracelet and bezel.
The skull represents the rebellious spirit and ancestral art adorned with eleven black diamonds and 21 rubies, as well as the elegant details of the yellow gold case, carbon fiber dial and black rubber strap. Only 200 watches from this magnificent collaboration.
Women’s Watch with Complication Award: Lady Compliquée Peacock by Fabergé
Pushing the limits of creativity and the savoir-faire of Fabergé’s artisan roots, he has been inspired by the Peacock egg created in 1908 by Peter Carl Fabergé to make this beautiful reproduction for display.
With the crown moves the circular mother-of-pearl ring that rotates anti-clockwise, some original and elegant handles that are part of the peacock’s plumage. A mechanism that has been developed exclusively for Fabergé by the Agenhor watchmaking workshop in Geneva.
The domed sapphire crystal gives this piece a great naturalness that highlights its 33-mm platinum case, the 54 diamonds set in the bezel and the 18-carat gold dial decorated with 127 more diamonds.
Men’s Watch Award: Voutilainen GMR by Voutilainen
Kari Voutilainen offers only 12 exclusive examples of a model that offers a second time zone and a 60-hour retrograde power reserve indicator. Likewise, the complexity of the artifact is impressive, since it is made up of 250 components.
Its elegance in a 39 mm white gold case speaks for itself, which is further decorated with 28 rubies and sapphires.
Chronograph Award: Piaget Altiplano Chrono
An overcoming of physics where there are: it is the thinnest manual chrono on the market with a case that is 8.24 millimeters high. Although it does not do without good technology, since in addition to the hour and minutes, it integrates a small seconds hand with a 30-minute counter and a second time zone. A total of 95 more pieces and the thinnest in the world; amazing.
Breaking the mold, this chronograph gets rid of the sporty essence and becomes a very elegant dress watch with great purity in its lines that are finished off perfectly with the rose gold that encases it. Its price is around 25,000 euros.
Tourbillon Watch Award: Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon by Ulysse Nardin
After The Prix Orologio dell’Anno 2015 and The Watch of the Year Prize, this is the third prize it has won this year, because Ulysse Nardin has worked hard for eight years to achieve the exquisite innovative design of this model.
Its implicit mechanical technology is covered in timeless gold and enamel that hides a unique architecture to date using the elasticity of leaf springs.
Only 18 units can be obtained of this innovative work by Ulysse, who versions this work in a rose gold or white gold case.
Calendar Watch Award: Slim d’Hermès QP de Hermès
Its elemental sobriety is taken to delicacy with lines that immediately attract attention, and the objective of this watch is to achieve extreme simplicity, rigor and balance between all the elements.
It has an automatic heart that is just 2.6 millimeters in height and offers a second time zone reading with only a 39.5 mm rose gold case with a sapphire that commands all the attention.
Reloj con Sonería Award: Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Gold Bridges by Girard-Perregaux
The open skeleton-shaped dial is always an original way to design a watch, but you have to be very careful with the design and placement of each element, since they will always remain in sight. For this reason, the greatest innovation of this Girard-Perregaux is the optimal positioning of the components, which causes much better sound propagation and which, luckily, has made it the winner of this award.
The minute repeater, as well as the perfect sound transmission -despite being worn on the wrist- are two great innovations that the jury has valued.
Among its striking pieces, its manual winding movement stands out, which integrates the famous tourbillon on three gold bridges and the 45-millimeter rose gold case.
Clock Award for Mechanical Exception: The Charming Bird by Jaquet-Droz
Pierre Jaquet-Droz’s birds delight like authentic singers the creative adventure of the brand that they have accompanied for almost three centuries. Between the past and the present, this watch combines history, aesthetics and technology with a unique design that reveals a clean and modern harmony.
Following the principles of wind instruments, the symphony of birds housed in the 47-mm case captivates the ears and eyes with a set of lines in black, anthracite, and transparency. Its case, crowned with a sober sapphire crystal dome, is specially designed to multiply the effect of each ray of light that penetrates it.
The Ateliers d’Art artisans were in charge of bringing the birds to life, a job that took more than twenty hours and required extreme delicacy, precision, and concentration. This is how new technologies were applied: sapphire and carbon tube, elements that allow air to be pumped, stored and produced sound. In addition, the animal will be able to rotate, open and close its beak, wings and tail, or vary the notes of the whistle.
Only 28 works of art will be available to the public in two modalities: white gold and red gold; an ode to the rich of yesterday and the up-and-comers of today who epitomize the fabulous history of Jaquet-Droz.
Little Needle Award: Felix de Habring2
Just in time to celebrate ten years of Habring2, Felix appeared, the embodiment of the simplest mechanical way of measuring time with maximum precision. And it is that the smallest components of it -including up to 84 different ones- are new and manufactured by small suppliers from Austria, Switzerland and Germany.
Its heart, 30 millimeters in diameter and 4.2 mm thick, is adorned with 18 jewels and two KIF dampers to ensure perfect operation, which incorporates a manually wound caliber.
Thinner than other models, its 50 pieces have been dropped with a price of 4,450 euros available in two versions: oxidized black or bluish.
Sports Watch Award: Pelagos by Tudor
This is the quintessential tool with a clear commitment to a lifestyle filled with aquatic adventures. Pelagos is one of the most complete mechanical diving watches in the world, capable of diving up to 500 meters.
The new Tudor MT5612 caliber with which it is equipped enjoys a substantial autonomy with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Also endowed with optimum legibility, its dial has been subtly marked with luminous dots that guarantee an excellent contrast with the blue background.
It is distinguished by its titanium steel bracelet with folding clasp with an automatic adjustment system. A material that makes it a much lighter product and resistant to seawater corrosion.
The matte finish manifests its technological connotations, its technical and professional vocation. It is also a sign of accuracy, reliability and its most representative element.
Jewel Watch Award: Audemars Piguet Diamond Punk
Diamond Punk is an ideal example of breaking with established aesthetic and technical rules. A unique piece in which 1,440 hours of work have been invested in developing a work of art to wear on the wrist.
This original and interesting watch in 18-carat white gold and onyx is covered with a total of 7,848 snow-set diamonds. Never looking at the time had…